LOGISTICS

How to get there
Flights go to Arlanda airport 45 kilometres north of Stockholm, but it is advisable to travel in your own car. In many cases you will need one to get to the crags.

Season
The best time for climbing is from May through August, although locals are out from late March until late October. Rain is not uncommon, but if you are lucky you will enjoy sunny days with temperatures over 25°C.

Gear
Most routes in the range 3-7 are nut protected which will require nuts and friends of all sizes, while most of the harder routes are all bolt protected. Beware though, some hard routes need natural pro in addition to the bolts, so you'd better carry a few nuts and friends, just in case. A single rope will suffice at most crags exept in Bohuslän where double ropes are useful.

Camping
Sweden has a lot of unspoiled nature and the constitutional custom called Allemansrätten, "The Everyman's right", makes it possible to camp for free almost anywhere. If you are in the vicinity of houses however, you should ask the proprietor first and if you have doubts choose one of the many official campgrounds instead. Allemansrätten also includes responsibility and keeping the nature clean is something that Swedes are good at. Make sure you follow their example. For information on officaial campings, contact one of the many tourist offices. The Sweden House in Kungsträdgården in Stockholm is another good source of information, call them on 08-789 24 15.

Guidebook
Unfortunately there is no guidebook over Sweden written in English. Klättring i Sverige ("Climbing in Sweden") by Patrik Leje and Jonas Paulsson, is a guidebook that presents the 16 best areas in the country. A total of 450 routes are described and the crags in this article are all included. This is an excellent choice for the first time visitor. You will find the book in the climbing shops (se under "Information") and in book stores. Mail order: Put 290 SEK on Post Office Giro 168 34 23-6 Patrik Leje. There are also local guidebooks but they are often hard to find.

Information
If you need more information on Swedish climbing contact some of the local climbing clubs. The Climbing Club of Skåne: 046-14 74 51; The Climbing Club of Gothenburg: 031-21 03 67; The Climbing Club of Bohuslän: 0522-144 80; The Climbing Club of Småland: 0490-238 13; The Climbing Club of Norrköping: 011-33 54 50. The Climbing Club of Stockholm can be reached through the people at the indoor wall Klätterverket, tel 08-641 10 48. The indoor walls are good places to go for information, you will definitely meet local climbers. Klätterverket and Klättercenter (08-644 90 90) are the most popular gyms in Stockholm while Gothenburg athletes go to Fysiken (031-16 89 89). Information can also be obtained at the climbing shops. In Stockholm try Tierra on Fleminggatan 27 (08-654 33 20) or Friluftsbolaget on Sveavägen 62 (08-651 35 00) and in Gothenburg try High Sport on Torggatan 3-5 (031-711 83 00).

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