After our short stop at the idyllic Ågelsjön we arrive in Sweden's capital. On a first acquaintance Stockholm is alarmingly flat. But hidden in the vast forests surrounding the city are some 150 crags offering nearly 1600 routes. Not all of the routes are of three star quality but there is good climbing here for everyone to enjoy for a week.
The rock is mostly granite and the climbing is dominated by wall climbing. However, you will have to master all sorts of techniques to make your way up the steep walls. Häggsta is the place where Swedish crag climbing took off and it still counts as one of the major crags. Due to its popularity you will definitely meet local climbers at Häggsta, which makes it a good first stop on a Stockholm visit. Häggsta offers climbing of all grades, although the best are in the low and middle grade interval. The surroundings are nice and the field below the crag is perfect for camping. Most faces catch the sun all day so it can get really hot in the summer. In that case, just stroll down to the inviting lake Albysjön for a refreshing swim.
Classics such as Fyran (4+) and Direttissiman (4+) are very popular, and the steep corner of Sjuan (3), which combined with the airy traverse of Sjuochenhalvan (3+) is one of Stockholm's best routes of its grade. Other good routes are Thors travers (4+), Det vilda i min bur (6-), Omöjliga väggen (6), Änglamark (7) and Något riktigt alpint (7/7+).
Only a few kilometres south of Häggsta you will find Örnberget, Stockholm's premier sport crag. There are about 50 routes to choose from. Almost all of the routes are bolt-protected and grades are from 7 and up. Panta Rei (7+), Orup (8-), Rakt på sak (8-/8), and Siddhartha (8/8+) will all give you a good workout.
In the forest near the small town of Gustavsberg, about a 30 minute drive east from the city, lies the intimidating crag called Skevik. The crag is shaped like an amphitheatre and large boulders on the opposite side make the place cave-like. The site is a protected monument of the past and there are tales of mysterious activities taking place here. For example it is said to have been a hide-away for bandits. Here you will find some outstanding natural lines, such as Centralpelaren (6), Huvudleden (7) and Den ofullbordade (6+). If you'd rather clip bolts try Silicon Valley (7-), Icones (7-/7), Tabu (8-) or Non-Stop (8-/8), they are all excellent.
Grönbrinksberget is another beautifully situated crag, located a 30-minute drive south west from the city. The view from the top of the crag is magnificient, with meadows and forests covering the landscape. Almost all the routes at Grönbrink follow distinct lines, mostly thin cracks, so knowing how to place your own protection is essential. The angle is not so steep wich makes the crag perfect for the middle grade trad climber. The best route here is undoubtedly Clark Kent direkt (6), but Uffes under (5+), Förhudsnisses flykt (5+), Lois Lane (6) and Löjliga familjen (7-) are excellent too.
The Tyresö peninsula 25 kilometers south east of the city also has good climbing to offer. The sport climber will enjoy the routes att Dödskalleberget and Dyviksudd while the traditionalist may want to try the demanding routes at Klövberget or Gritstoneberget.
From top to bottom:
Peter Bosma on Devil, Dödskalleberget.
Per Willén on Narva, Ryssgraven.
Peter Bosma on Eliminator, Häggsta.
Patric Fransson on Den ofullbordade, Skevik.