If we continue up north through Bohuslän we end up in the crack climbing Mecca of Sweden. This is the antipole of the sport climbing areas around Gothenburg and it is without a doubt Sweden's best rock climbing area. Even Norwegian climbers, who have plenty to choose from in their home country, come here in the summer to tear up their hands and fingers on the steep granite cracks.
For centuries Bohuslän has been an important fishing region and fishing is still a major industry here. Go down to the docks in the morning and watch the fishermen as they unload today's catch of shrimps, lobster and other delicacies. Bohuslän is also a major tourist magnet. During the summer months - especially in July - huge yachts line up at the docks of Smögen and the other fishing villages, transforming the idyll into a circus. But this ensures alternatetive activities on your well-deserved rest days.
Bohuslän is a large area, but the best climbing is found on the crags around Dingle, a small community 30 kilometres north west of Uddevalla, about 100 kilometres north of Gothenburg. Even though Bohuslän has the best reputation of Sweden's climbing areas it is strangely quiet, so don't be surprised if you spend a few days here without meeting any climbers.
Häller is Sweden's most notorious crag. Climbers speak about the "Häller syndrome", a phenomenon that affects most climbers on their first visit. If you decide to try one of the big routes after all you will most certainly have a memorable experience. Some of the classics were established in the early 80's by Norwegian climbers, led by Hans Christian Doseth. He left several marks here, for exampel the overhanging, unprotected layback off-width Klart svår (7+), which has only seen two or three repeats. Last year the swedish climber Richard Ekehed, who has made repeats of Braille Trail and Masters Edge, established Rätt lätt (9-) next to Doseth's creation, thus creating Sweden's hardest nut-protected route.
Hidden in the forest above the Bärfendal Valley is Välseröd, the most frequented crag in Bohuslän. It consists of several walls up to 50 metres and is one of the rare crags where you can find excellent routes even in the lower grades. Villskudd (6-) involves all types of climbing in its 40 metres and is by many considered to be Sweden's best route all categories. The ambitious climber can try Doseth's Slim Line (7+), a popular testpiece on a golden pillar, or the long crack system of Stora väggen (7-) on the main wall, while the beginner will enjoy the nice hand crack of Jungfrun (4+).
Standing above a cornfield just 100 metres from the road Hallinden is definitely one of the most impressive cliffs of Bohuslän. The routes are of extremely good quality and a visit here should absolutely be on your Bohuslän agenda. Prisemaster (6-) and Ettan (6) are the best middle grade leads while Catch (7+) and General (8-/8) offer something demanding for the finger jamming expert.
A newly developped crag is Skälefjäll, an old quarry near the village of Brastad. The main attraction is Electric Avenue (9-), which follows an ultrathin crack on the smooth, steep wall on the left side of the crag. Granitbiten (7-) and Hot'n Tots (6-) are also worth seeking out. There are numerous other crags in Bohuslän who deserve being mentioned here but we have to continue our journey, so we move east to the sport climbing eldorado of Småland.
From top to bottom:
Johan Hvenmark on Villskudd, Välseröd.
Henrik Bolander on Electric Avenue, Skälefjäll.
Ulrika Tiegs on Prisemaster, Hallinden.
Johan Hvenmark on Zick-Zack, Vinternberget.