After a few days we take the E6 along the west coast and two hours later we end up in Gothenburg. Often reffered to as "the front side of Sweden" Gothenburg is a natural stop on a Sweden visit. Apart from climbing there are a lot of possibilities for those who want to experience more than just the vercal world of Sweden. Try one of the many good sea food restaurants or make a visit to Liseberg, the big amusement park right in the center of town.
The proximity of the Gothenburg crags is unique. Utby, Fjällbo and Lexby are situated next to each other just outside the city center. Here you can climb cracks of all sizes. You will also find a good number of sport routes. The rock is a granite conglomerate which is very rough on your hands and fingers. The crystals can be of great help however, as they offer good footholds beside the cracks.
On Utby's Stora Väggen, The Main Wall, you will find some extremely good routes. The ultra classic layback crack Tuborg (6+) is a must for every visiting climber. On the same wall you can try the serious Pripps (8-), climbed in 1983 by the Norwegian phenomenon Hans Christian Doseth (who was killed on Trango Tower in 1984). Kronenburg (7) and Carlsberg (7+) are also of high quality. At Fjällbo you can try the sport routes on Hollywood-väggen or you you can have a go at the hand cracks of Bananblocket (6-), Stopper (6) and Stepper (6+). Lexby's major attraction is Great Crack (6-), a fierce squeeze chimney that will strip you to the bone if you are not careful enough. Fjällbo and Utby also offer a great number of well protected routes in the lower grades. Skärselden (4+), Till/Luftiga steget (5-) and Spagaten (5+) at Utby and Kenneths led (5) and Ole's Crack (5+) at Fjällbo are all nice.
In recent years sport climbing has taken on strong among local climbers. They have searched through the southern part of the province of Bohuslän for steep cliffs and now the bolt clipper also has a lot of possibilities around Gothenburg. Gubben i Berget is the closest crag, about 30 kilometres north of Gothenburg, and there are about 20 steep routes to choose from. Vikskile is situated on the island Tjörn, about 70 kilometres up north. The routes here are steep and Menige Gustavsson (8+) is one of the most popular workouts. At Vindön, 80 kilometres from Gothenburg, you will find some extremely steep and routes. Styv kuling (7+) is one of the most spectacular ones.
From top to bottom:
Said Belhaj on Vit ambivalens, Fjällbo.
Alison Martindale and Anita Rostén on Ulf Björnbergs led, Fjällbo.
Anita Rostén on Menige Gustavsson, Vikskile.